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about the breed

The Formation of Perfection

Mini rex are often termed as the velveteen rabbit.  They are known for their short, thick, and plush like coat. They come in a large variety of vibrant colors and patterns. Because of their friendly and easy-going personalities, mini rex make exceptional pets or fancy show prospects.  The below information consists of the ARBA standards for mini rex, historical facts, and judging methods.


For competitions, a Mini Rex should have a well-rounded back, with well-developed and filled shoulders, midsection and hindquarters. Their head should be well-filled and set on a short neck, with thick ears not longer than 3.5 inches. They have medium-fine bone and rather short legs. Fur should be extremely dense, straight and upright. It should be smooth and springy, not too soft or silky. Fur must be between 1/2 inch and 7/8 inch in length.


They are a four-class rabbit, which means there are four age groups they can be shown in. They are Senior Bucks (3 - 4.5 lbs), Senior Does (3.2 - 4.5 lbs), Junior Bucks (2 - 3.8 lbs) and Junior Does (2 - 3.8 lbs). The Mini Rex color spectrum includes Black, Blue, Blue Eyed White, the Broken Group, Castor, Chinchilla, Chocolate, Himalayan, Lilac, Lynx, Opal, Otter, Red, Sable Point, Seal, Tortoise, Red-Eyed White, Smoke Pearl, Sable, and Silver Marten. New certificates of development have been awarded by ARBA for Tan Mini Rex, all to be presented in the next few years.


  • Breed faults include: Long, narrow, or rangy type, extremely low or narrow hindquarters, chopped and/or undercut hindquarters, protruding hips, poor flesh condition, disproportionate ears, overly protruding guard hairs, dull or faded coat, severe molt, harsh wiry or curly textured coat, or a soft coat lacking in resilience and/or density.

  • Direct disqualifications include: Fur other than rex, over or underweight, ears over 3.5 inches, and general disqualifications. These include: poor show/table manners, poor example of breed, cow hocks, hutch stains, poorly developed loin, sore eyes, weak or improper ear carriage, stray white hairs, improper coat and/or nail coloration, femininity in males, masculinity in females, runny eyes, pregnant females, wrong classification, masking defects (painting nails to be the proper color) any sign of illness/disease (wry neck, tumors, split penis, missing teeth, missing toe nails, deformed bones, orchidsm, blindness, discharge from nose, droopy ears, any surgical alterations, etc.) (signs of serious illness can permanently render an animal unfit for the show table).                                             The Point System for Mini Rex

Body: 35 points

Head: 5 points

Ears: 5 points

Fur: 35 points

Colour/Markings: 15 points

Condition: 5 points

Making a total of 100 points

History of the Breed

Mona Berryhill from Texas began working on the Mini Rex breed when she won a pair of DWARF REX donated by Marylouise Cowan at the 1984 ARBA Convention in Orlando Florida. A little buck, ZORO, survived and paired with a small Lynx Rex doe named Cotton they produced a litter of 7. There were 3 does in this litter that were kept to become the foundation for the Mini Rex breed. Happy, Bashful and Dopey have long faded from the pedigrees that we see today. Anyone who has been raising Mini Rex since the early years have old pedigrees in their files that can trace back to this beginning. Happy and Bashful were sent to Linda Thompson and Gloria Middleton in Sarasota, Florida, where they were used to start a breeding program there. Gloria retired from rabbits in 1995 while Linda Thompson continues today with her Southern Belle's Mini Rex. You can find Southern Belles in the pedigrees of the top winning Castors including the first and second Mini Rex to win BIS at an ARBA Convention. In 1986 at the ARBA Convention in Columbus a very nervous Mona Berryhill presented the Castor Mini Rex. After what seemed like a lifetime while the Standards Committee made a long and careful scrutiny of the animals, they approved the working standard for the Mini Rex rabbit. The cheers rose and tears flowed as we hugged and predicted that this was the breed of the future. 1987 was a busy year for Mini Rex breeders. New varieties were cropping up in litters all over the country due to the Netherland Dwarf influence of the Dwarf Rex. It was not a surprise to find Tortoise, Sable and Smoke Pearl that first year. There were a lot of experiments with small Standard Rex and Mini Rex crosses to improve body type and fur. It wasn't long before there were Chinchilla, Seals, Californian (now called Himalayan), Red, White, Blue, Black, Broken, and Chocolate just to name a few. Virginia Minden from California and Bill and Laurie Turner from Arizona volunteered to help in the presentation process for new varieties starting in Portland at the 1987 ARBA Convention. This was the second year for the breed and the first showing of l5 new varieties. They were: White, Blue, Black, Chinchilla, Seal, Californian, Chocolate, and Beige presented by Virginia Minden; Red presented by Bill and Laurie Turner; Tortoise and Smoke Pearl presented by Linda Thompson; Opal, Broken and Lynx presented by Mona Berryhill; Otter and Sable presented by Gloria Middleton. The Beige, Smoke Pearl, Sable and Otter failed, all others passed with a working standard for their first showing. Madison, Wisconsin was the site of the 1988 ARBA Convention, and the final showing of the Mini Rex as a new breed in rabbit history. If the Mini Rex were accepted as a breed, the Standards Committee agreed to allow the other varieties presented in Portland to be accepted as recognized varieties provided they passed their presentation at Madison. The Mini Rex became an accepted ARBA breed and history was made! Not all of the varieties presented were accepted the Blacks and Chocolates would have to wait until Tulsa to try again where they would once again fail in 1989. The process would start over with two different breeders. The 1989 ARBA Convention in Tulsa Oklahoma saw the first official convention entry of the Mini Rex Breed. Mona and Ken Berryhill took both BOB and BOS with a stunning pair of Castors. It was already evident that this was a breed rewrite ARBA show history. Eric Brennan of Texas took over the Black variety and Freda Kraus from Maryland took over the Chocolate variety. Both the Chocolates and Blacks made a new presentation at the 1990 Convention in Tampa and both passed. The Chocolates successfully completed the process in 1992 at Columbus where it all began. It was here that a Chocolate junior doe from the 1992 presentation was sold at the Mini Rex auction for a record $900. That auction record still stands. The Blacks failed one presentation and finally completed the process in 1993. Today the Black (both the Solid and Broken) varieties are very strong competitors and have won BOB at Conventions. In 1991 Linda Thompson made the first presentation of the Tricolor Mini Rex in Pomona California, and in 1994 they too were approved. Lilac Mini Rex were first presented by Judy Ball of Virginia in 1992 at Columbus and finally recognized in 1995. In 1994 and again in 1995 Mini Rex made ARBA history when Anne and Lou Lassen of California took back to back BIS with Castors at ARBA Conventions. In the following years, entries of Mini Rex at Conventions were in the top two with entries of 900-1000 Mini Rex. Each year we find Mini Rex in the number one position for ARBA registrations, Grand Champions, and BIS wins. 2005 saw the addition of Blue-eyed Mini Rex to the lineup. Jan Coffelt's beautiful 2001 Blue Eyed White presentation at the ARBA Convention in San Diego California passed the first showing and only improved for the second showing in 2002. The BEWs passed their third presentation with flying colors in 2004, joining the ranks of ARBA sanctioned Mini Rex varieties in 2005 as well as the otters. Smoke pearl, silver marten, and sable are varieties that have recently passed.  Tans are next in line for approval. Other varieties that are currently being worked on include lutino and tort in blue, lilac, and chocolate.

Rex Fur

The short upright coat of a rex was first discovered in 1919, as a mutation in a wild rabbit in France. Rex fur is a recessive gene, meaning you must have two rex furred rabbits to produce it. Rex fur also has a significant amount of genetic modifiers, making it a challenge to produce the correct texture.  It's not entirely uncommon for astrex, bald,  or even semi- bald individuals to pop up in breeding programs. Most of these animals are culled, however some dedicated breeders are working to stabilize these traits. 


  • Texture: Texture is basically the overall feel of the coat. It can be smooth, medium textured, and harsh/coarse. Or, it can also be very clumpy to extremely slick. The slick coat is very smooth and soft and the fur is often very shiny. Then the medium textured coat is usually in between slick and coarse. A harsh/coarse coat will be rough when touched. Judges and breeders feel for texture by flattening the coat from head to tail then drawing the hand slowly backward from tail to shoulders with the heel and outside edge of the hand feeling the coat as the hand drags backward across it.


  • Length: This is the length of the rabbit’s hair. Both the undercoat and the guard hairs can be of different or of similar lengths.


  • Density: Density is the amount of hairs per square inch. The more per square inch the denser the coat. The exception of this is the coat that is double or in molt. At that point, the coat is then referred to as a false density as it does not remain on the rabbit once the coat is molted and primed out.


  • Drag: Drag is defined as the grip or clump of the coat. A coat with a ton of drag will feel almost like Velcro. This can be caused by a barbed coat, a coat with guards that are too thick or a coat that has guards standing out above the coat's shorter guards. Slick smooth coats will often have very little drag and very harsh coats will have a lot of drag.


  • Guard Hairs: The guard hairs give resistance to the coat. On a normal coat they are the longer hairs that stand above the shorter undercoat but with the rex rabbits, the very close to even or exactly even with the length of the undercoat.


  • Finish or Prime: This refers to when a rabbit is done shedding or molting and the resulting term is that the rabbit's coat is finished or primed.


  • Resistance: This can be used to measure coat density. It basically works by the springiness you get when bouncing you hand off of the coat. An extremely dense coat will have a very firm resistance.


  •  "Even" or "uneven" coat: This is basically the look of the coat. Even and unevenness are measured when either the guard hairs of the undercoat is too long or two short. This will depend on the breed. Most breeds will have longer guard hairs then undercoat hairs, while mini rex should have hair that is of an even length and stands upright. Even in length guard hairs should have a very thick dense and plush feeling. Long guard hairs generally have more coarse wiry feeling while short guard hairs will give off a more slick feeling. Wavy hairs will have a loose and slightly plush feel to them. Altrex is much like the feel of a poodle dog's coat, just thicker. Next, I will define diameter...which will refer to the diameter of the hair shaft a cross cut section the fur diameter of the guards and the undercoat will be either thick or thin. When it comes to hair diameter, usually all you'll see in rabbits is either a thin guard hair and then undercoat, or thick guards and thin undercoat. With mini rex having an extremely dense coat with even length hairs, they are able to retain heat better than other rabbit breeds.


  • Smooth and Barbed Hair: Smooth hair on a rabbit will look slick and shiny and overall very healthy. The individual hair shaft should be smooth without imperfections. A barbed hair will have the equivalent of split end all the way up the shaft and will give the coat and rougher and unhealthy look to it.

Posing, Balance, and Structure

Posing a rabbit helps breeders pick and choose quality show rabbits from their herds. With posing, you can visually see what physical areas of the rabbit are weak or strong in conformation idealism. 


First, understand that mini rex are a compact breed. Compact breeds are different than commercial breeds in that they have a low head mount and the body has less length.


 It may take some time for a beginner to learn how to pose, however, it will come with time. Many young rabbits may offer a challenge in teaching how to pose, though a well-built rabbit will be "born to pose" with little to no intervention required. You want to breed for rabbits that sit comfortably in a pose naturally. 


Pose the rabbit, hind end first. Square up the rabbit's feet, by getting his feet up under him. Ensure his feet are flat and he's not on the tips of his toes. It's best to do this on a flat surface with a carpet that the rabbit can comfortably grip with his feet. A smooth surface is just going to cause your rabbit to feel uneasy and cause it to tense up, distributing his weight unevenly in order to feel balanced.


Next, use a straight vertical object such as a pencil or ruler for measuring. The tips of the toes should ideally line up with the point of the knee and highest point of the back. Use the visual comparative chart below to see what you're looking for.  If the highest point of the back is in front of your pencil/ruler, then the rabbit's back peaks too early. If the highest point is behind the pencil/ruler that means that your rabbit has high shoulders and peaks too late. This is all about balance.


To see if a mini rex's ears are in proportion to the body, they need to be shorter than the length of the head. If the ears are longer than the rabbit should be passed on as a pet and not be deemed as show or brood quality.


Next to balanced proportion is the height of the back. Lay a pencil horizontally across your rabbit's back. The highest point of the back should be higher than the rabbit's ears.  


Now comes the finger test. Test the balance of width to depth. The width between the hind legs should be at least 3 fingers wide. They should not be cow hocked. You should not be able to feel the hocks hitting your fingers at all. For the second test, you should have one finger width between the bone of the ribs and the bone of the hips. If you are able to get more fingers in between those bones, this means that the rabbit is too long in the mind-section.


Now you are going to test the balance of length of leg to length of stomach-which interestingly should be the same. Measure the length of the hind foot from the hock to the toes. Mark the measurement on the pencil. Then measure the length of the underside of the rabbit's stomach. Do this by measuring the flat part from the bone of the front leg to the hip bone or beginning of the hind leg. They should be equal.

Breeding for topline and high point: With mini rex being a compact breed, breeders often attempt to shorten the length of the body. However, this can create early peaks resulting in correct high points but longer midsections. Attain an eye for the difference in a slightly forward high point and a topline that continues to round down and a rabbit that slopes sharply down from the high point. So remember, a successful breeding operation requires a herd with individuals who have a variety of traits in order to avoid cementing faults or extremes. 

Comparative Structure;

Correct structure is highlighted in blue,

while incorrect structure is highlighted in


Color Crossing Guidlines

Aside from there being over 17,010 possible coat colors for rabbits, each color comes in a variety of shades. Shading depends on the genetic background of the rabbit. Most color types come in four different sub-types- Black, Chocolate, Blue, and Lilac. For example, you can have black himalayan, blue himalayan, chocolate himalayan, and lilac himalayan. Each of these sub-types can come in a variety of dark and light shades. With agouti colors, there are rings of color (called bands) on the shafts of hair. Wide band shades will have more surface color extending farther down the body. Color is measured in density, richness, intensity, surface color, underlying color, belly color, and of course any markings. As a breeder, you should strive to perfect and/or improve any color recognized by the ARBA in your specific breed standard. You want to get just the right shade. For example, if you are breeding for red mini rex-you want the red to be more of a deep thrianta red as opposed to a bright orange red.

Mini rex coat color is much different from other rabbit breed coat colors. By definition, the coat color of a mini rex should express the most extreme, intense, and true to rendition of what a particular color should look like. To summarize, the mini rex should be the example of rabbit color. What makes rex coat color unique, is that it is made up of three colors for the agouti shades and solids for the self shades. Agouti hair shading is made up of the tip color, intermediate color, and underlying color, and at times there can be as many as five of these rings, or bands. The length of each color level that runs up the hair shaft determines the intensity and shade of the overall coat color, these are called bands. Take for example the castor variety. If the tip color is short and a dull shade of black, then the intermediate color which should be a rich dark shade of red will show through more and this will give the castor a more amber look. Or, if the intermediate color is very wide and less intense, then the overall coat color won't be as vibrant and the tip color will show through more, giving off a greyer look. These bands are what breeders strive to work for when breeding mini rex. The color must be perfect to the standard of what it should be. Each band must be worked on to be perfect, to get it to just that right density, length, and intensity. If any of the color is off on either a solid colored hair or on any of the three bands on agouti hairs, whether they be too thick, too dark, or too light, they will throw the entire color off. Especially on agouti rabbits, this can determine whether a color can be defined as one shade or an entirely different one. Certain band colors must be present on certain parts of the body. The lack of certain band colors is how you end up with different varieties. For example, a red variety is basically an amber variety without the chocolate agouti ticking and a fawn variety is basically a lynx without the lilac agouti ticking. Too much ticking and the color could be misidentified as something else. Other factors, such as gene modifies, help determine and create the extent of a color on both the hair shaft and the pattern it creates. For example, take the tan pattern. If the mahogany coloration that is between the base color and the cream color is more physically dominant and extends and over takes the cream, then it is a true tan. If the mahogany color is very minimal, then it is considered an otter, and if it is not present at all, then it is a silver marten.

Castor Coat and Amber Coat Comparison


Rabbits with an agouti coat will not show their bands at an early age. At just a few days old, even if all of the kits are the same agouti color, they may vary greatly in light and dark shades. Once they are Juniors, their coats will change several times with their molt. Each time, the coat will look a little different (termed as "between coats" or "double coated"). When they are at this stage, if you blow into the coat, you will notice that the bands are not in the right order. This is normal, and the coat will eventually grow out. The coat grows out first with the tips of the band, then the midband, and lastly the undercolor. This is why it is difficult to show junior agouti based rabbits. If they are at this stage, then the tipping of the new coat will be showing at the base, giving off the wrong base color for the breed standard. Typically, rabbits molt out their fur starting from their back end on up. You can keep watch at this point to watch the correct color coming in. The surface color of a junior agouti rabbit may appear patchy or perhaps two toned. They should grow that out at about 5-7 months. However, at 4 months, the width of the midband and undercolor are not likely to change.


Below is a chart to help assist in what basic colors are good to intensify and perfect with other existing colors and what colors could potentially damage other strains. Keep in mind, that not all of these below colors are recognized and some may be undesirable and even damaging for other color strains.   These undesirable colors are only mentioned for easy recognition and the possibility of using them in creating new varieties.

Color Crossing Guidelines for Mini Rex Colors:

(Note that many of the below varieties are not ARBA recognized. These guidelines are in place to help breeders maintain or correct color in their lines. Breeding the wrong colors together will result in mismarked/incorrect colorations. It will ruin the line and cause "mutant" colors to pop up generations down the road.)



Reds to improve rufus gene if needed, but red offspring would not be showable. 50% of under color should be a slate blue with the other 50% should be the rufus colored ring band.


Amber or Cinnamon

Breed only with reds, chocolate, and other ambers. The coat should resemble that of a castor except the amber has light chocolate ticking while the castor will have black ticking. The undercoat should be a light dove grey color.



The color should be a rich golden brown throughout the entirety of the coat. The undercoat should be a pale pearl gray. Rust coloration is a fault. Breed only to other nutria.



Steels are either black, blue, chocolate, or lilac with either gold or silver tipped hairs. The Es gene ensures that the solid undercolor travels all the way up the hair shaft. it is often a hidden gene, however, agoutis such as castor and chinchilla, paired with a solid such as a black or blue can result in visible tipped steels



Can only be bred to other reds. Other colors such as fawn can happen but are highly undesirable as fawn does not carry the rufus factor. Occasionally castor can be introduced since both red and castor are wide band agoutis. All reds are black based. There is no such thing as chocolate based. A clean red simply pushes the black tipping off of the hair shaft as well as the blue undercolor, leaving the cream/red coloration. 



Can be bred to other oranges and reds only. Should be a bright vibrant orange color with white underparts.



May be bred to other fawn, beige, or red. The color is a dilute of red and is a solid light caramel color. The wideband gene is not present and the solid color should follow down the hair shaft to the skin.



Should only be bred to other lynx. The surface color should be a very light orange that is lightly ticked with lilac. The intermediate band should be as orange as possible with a white under color.



Best to breed to another opal, but can be bred to a blue to dilute the fawn ticking if needed. May be bred to black as well, but it's not very desirable. The underlying color should be a rich medium blue while the intermediate color should be a golden fawn with a slate blue under color.



May be bred to other blues, black, chocolate, and lilacs. Also opal but the opal will be dominant in the offspring. The entire body should be a rich levi blue with a medium blue under color close to the skin.



Can be bred to other blacks or to blues to improve blue intensity and fix light nail colors. It can also be used to improve the shading of Torts. The color should be a deep and rich lustrous black with a slight slate blue under color.



Only breed seal to seal. Breeding to black will only damage the color be creating a dark seal that is hard to distinguish between a black and actual seal. Occasionally you can breed to sable point as long as the seal carries non extensions. The color should be a very dark brown, almost black, which shades to a slightly lighter brown on the chest, belly, and flank.



Can be bred to other chocolates, blacks, blue and most preferably lilacs as they are the dilute of chocolate. May also be bred to lynx if absolutely needed. Do not breed to castors as that would eliminate the top color and black ear lacing. The surface should be a hershey brown with a dove grey under color.



Best to stick with other lilacs, but they can bred with chocolate and to light blues. Never with blacks as black is dominant. The color should be a very light dove grey.



Can be bred to any other colors however it is preferred to stay away from himis and agoutis and just stick with other BEWs. The color is a solid clean white with bright blue eyes. It is highly preferred to breed with two Vienna carriers or other BEWs.



Can be bred to any other colors however it is preferred to stay away from himis and agoutis and just stick with other REWs. The color is a solid clean white with red or pink eyes.


Ermine or Cream or Brown Eyed White

Can be bred to cream or chinchilla. Color is a cream and may have a very slight ticking to the coat. Eyes are to be brown.



Can be bred to other chinchillas, blacks, or less desirably to blues. Never breed to a shaded rabbit such as a himalayan. intermediate color should be a shade of pearl with black ticking and a slate blue undercolor. The color can come in many varying degrees from a very dark black ticked coat to a soft white ticked one known as frosted pearl. Black ticking is the only recognized shade of chinchilla, however they can have blue, lilac, chocolate, and even red ticking.



Essentially, squirrel is a blue chinchilla. Coloration should be a light slate blue with clean white underparts. Breed with chinchilla and other squirrel.



Can be bred to other sable, sable points, and himalayan. The color should be a medium to dark sepia body with dark sepia points. The blue version of a sable is known as a smoke pearl which should be bred only to other smoke pearls.


Sable Point

Can be bred to other sable points, himalayan, seal, tort, and black. Do not breed to any agouti such as chinchilla, or harlequins, tris, tans, and BEW. This will cause problems to the sable point line. It should have a light cream body with dark sepia shading on all the points and belly.


Sable Marten

Can be bred to other sable martens, sable point martens, and any colors compatible with sables. The color should be that of a sable but with silver white undersides.


Silver Marten

Can be bred with any solid self colors. The color should be either a self black, chocolate, blue, or lilac with silver white undersides



Can be bred with other pointed coats and himalayan. The base color should be a cream color with a shaded points. The points can either be black, blue, chocolate, seal, or lilac.


Smoke Pearl

Should be a medium pearl gray body with darker points around the eyes, nose, feet, tail, and ears. Can be bred with Himalayan, blue point, and dilute sable points. Often, a blue seal bred to a himi produces the best smoke pearl. Essentially, smoke pearl is a blue sable.



Use only other sallanders for breeding. The body should be a light cream color with shaded points and smut marks on the body. The cream color should compliment the color of the shading which can be either black, blue, chocolate, or lilac.



Can be bred with any other shaded color. The color should be a solid clean white with distinctive solid points that can either be black, chocolate, blue, or lilac. Eye color should be pink.



Breed only tans with other tans. The color is that of a solid self with a rich tan red color on the legs, underparts and neck. The rufus gene must extend the mahogany color throughout the entirety of the area it must present in. Any fading into otter coloration is not acceptable. Outcrossing to selfs, otters, or red is permitted, however, you'll have to back breed the first generation to the parents in order to produce more tans.



May be bred to other otters or self colors such as black, blue, chocolate, or lilac. The color should be a self with white undersides that blend with a slight tan when touching the edges of the self color.


Usually stick to breeding with other torts, but can be bred to black as well and tricolors and brokens. The surface body color should be a bright rich orange caramel color that smoothly blends into smokey darker points such as either black, chocolate, blue, or lilac. The undercolor should be a blue white color. Only black tort is a recognized variety.


Torted Tri/Harlequin

The color should be that of a normal tri color or harlequin, except there will be tort shading along with the normal markings. This is a result of the aa and eje gene. This color is undesirable.


Japanese Harlequin

Can be bred with other japanese, harlequins, and tris. The color should look like a mosaic of spots consisting of either orange/black, chocolate/blue, or fawn/lilac.



Can be bred with harlequin, brokens, selfs, and other tris. The color is that of a harlequin with a broken pattern of white. Only the orange/black tri is recognized. As with brokens, the amount of white must be more than 10% over the body and the colors must display a clean pattern-butterfly, ears, etc. The combination of colors must be clean and not "bleed" into each other or be too cracked.


Checkered Harlequin

Can be bred to another harlequin, japanese, or tri. The colors are the same as a japanese except the pattern is a bit more complicated and in the form of a sort of large checker board.


Magpie Harlequin

It is preferred that magpie be bred with magpie or a non extension - red. Chinchilla and japanese harlequin may also be a pairing (however some of the kits will be chestnut harlequins). The pattern is the same as a harlequin except the color combinations are cream/black, cream/blue, cream/chocolate, and cream/lilac, and in rare cases cream/sable.



It's a general rule to breed a solid to a broken. If you breed broken to broken, then you'll start losing pattern. The color should be any color with white, with the color showing through in the form of large patches or spots with clean edges. It is desirable to breed for proper butterfly, eye circles, cheek spots, ear base, side markings, spine/herringbone markings, blaze, saddle, undercut, and color stops. There are three types of showable patterns-Closed Blanket, Open Blanket, and Butterfly. You'll want to produce something with a smooth closed blanket. A closed blanket is the heaviest and most solid form of color over the rabbit. An open blanket is when the side markings and spine markings do not touch. The butterfly is when the side and spine markings do touch. The edges where the color meets the white should not be jagged, faded, or "bleed" into the white. Cracked brokens (uneven edges and stray spots) is undesirable. Charlies (mostly white with less than 10% color on the body) are not showable. Charlies can be kept as brood animals to help improve otherwise booted brokens. To get good pattern brokens, breed a charlie to a solid. Never breed charlie to charlie as the entire litter will consist of charlies. You can breed a charlie to a normal broken, but half the litter will be charlie. If you breed a broken to a broken, you'll get 50% broken, 25% solid, and 25% charlies. A true charlie will carry both dominant copies of the broken genes- Enen. While a false Charlie will not, but may exhibit the same color pattern, simply because it is a poor quality broken. A false Charlie will have at least one good broken parent. In some very rare cases, homozygous brokens can exhibit intestinal problems because the same genes that control this pigment also control nerve cells to the digestive system.



This is a form of broken with solid white being covered in uniform spots (not patches) over the body. Small, speckle-like spots as termed as "buckshot" There will be no spine marks. Same breeding rules apply with broken.



Should be bred only with other hotots. The color should be a pure clean white with a solid black defined lining around the eye. Eye color should be a dark brown.


Tuxedo (or booted)

Can be bred to other tuxedos, solids, brokens, and dalmatians. The color should be either a self or harlequin with white booted legs, belly, and chest.


Vienna Marked

Can be bred to BEW and any other color. This color is basically the reverse of a broken and can have an almost dutch pattern to them called sport. They are usually a solid color with white booted feet, white blaze on head, and a white v-neck. The eyes are usually blue, but can be a dilute brown, half blue and half brown, or blue gray. This pattern is also called vienna marked. The vienna gene is basically the gene that causes blue eyed whites and when these rabbits are bred with other colors, you'll get a vienna marked.

The Dwarf Gene in Mini Rex

Mini rex must carry the true dwarf gene (Dw) in order to be showable. A non dwarf will be DW and a double will be dw and will result in peanuts. Mini rex that do not carry the gene should not be on the show table as they do not represent the breed standard. The main problem being that their ears are too big. A rabbit carrying the dwarf gene will have ears that are in fact smaller than what the standard calls for. Breeding a non dwarf to a non dwarf will obviously result in a litter of nonshowable non dwarfs. Now, if you breed a non dwarf to a true dwarf, you will get 50% dwarfs and 50% non dwarfs which ultimately will not be showable, but you will not get any peanuts in the litter. Breeding a true dwarf to a another true dwarf will give you a 25% chance of having peanuts in the litter, but you will also get some very showable true dwarfs out of that litter as well. Non dwarf does are termed as "BUDS"-Big Ugly Does, and non dwarf bucks are termed as "BUBS"-Big Ugly Bucks. Rabbit's ears are the first parts of the body to reach full size at a young age. When a young rabbit reaches it's "ugly teenage" growth stage, the ears may appear too big for the body, but just keep them measured. If they are over 3.5 inches (for a mini rex), then they do not carry the dwarf gene. Contrary to what some may say, heat temperatures do not play a part in the size of a rabbit's ears. It is strictly a genetic trait.

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